Fall driving tour a road map to state's beauty - MLive.com
MANISTEE -- A friend and I recently discovered a perfect Pure Michigan weekend getaway ideal for late summer or fall. It included pristine beaches and picnics, fine food and leisurely drives.
Use this driving tour as a road map to the state's beauty and a weekend of pure escape.
We packed the coolers on a bright Friday morning and headed northwest to the Lake Michigan coast, planning to wind our way through Manistee, Benzie and parts of Leelanau counties. Portions of the route traverse Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (yes, recently named the most beautiful place in America by viewers of "Good Morning America"), beautiful any time of the year, but spectacular in autumn. And tucked all along the route are dunes, streams, maple and oak forests, clear lakes and little-known beaches that are accessible and walkable.
Day 1
Start in Manistee, where the 1.4-mile Riverwalk is ideal for a brisk morning stroll before the heat of the day sets in. Watch fishermen clean their catches and boaters swabbing down decks aboard sparkling yachts. The walk takes you along the Manistee River behind storefronts and businesses, near parks and historic buildings and out to Lake Michigan. At the big lake, hike the beach or head out on a pier to watch for freighters.
Later, browse the eclectic mix of retail shops, galleries, antique stores and restaurants along Main Street, which is on the National Register of Historic Places.
At mid-morning, drive along M-22, which winds along the coast, around Portage Lake and into the tiny hamlet of Onekama. Check out the unique finds at the Lookout Shoppe, owned by former Grand Rapids resident Patty (O'Driscoll) Callaway. On the day we visited, she directed us to Pierport Beach, where many of the locals hang out.
Farther along the route, Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club is worth a stop for its spectacular views of the links-style course and the lake. Sip a beverage in one of the Adirondack chairs at the front of the inn. But don't tarry long, a nearby beach awaits.
Once in Arcadia, turn left on Lake Street, which dead-ends into some of the prettiest beachfront you'll find in the state. It's just a few steps down to the beach, making this an easy spot to set up a picnic and spend the afternoon.
For dinner and an overnight stay, continue on into Frankfort or Crystal Mountain Resort & Spa in Thompsonville. Frankfort's The Fusion restaurant is a worthy spot for fine Asian dining (try a tureen of Tom Ka Soup) as is The Thistle Pub at Crystal. Or check out the back deck at Villa Marine, typical pub food, but great views of Lake Betsie and the bluffs of Elberta. The region is full of places to spend the night, from the resort atmosphere of Crystal Mountain to the Victorian Betsie Bay Inn or beachfront Harbor Lights Resort in Frankfort.
Day 2
The next day, wind around Crystal Lake and head out to Point Betsie Lighthouse. If the wind is right, you'll see kiteboarders skimming the water or jumping waves as they go airborne. It's a great spot to collect colored glass smoothed by the lake as it washes ashore. At this point, you're entering the national lakeshore, with its 35 miles of coastline.
Veer off west on Esch Road, about three miles south of Empire, and in about a mile you'll come to where Otter Creek empties into Lake Michigan. At Esch Road Beach, we happened to catch a forest ranger sharing details of the area to a group of travelers. Especially beautiful in the fall are the trails here that follow the creek. This is the site of the former logging village of Aral. Interpretive signs describe logging activities of the past.
Continue north on M-22, following the scenic woodsy drive into Empire. There, the city park beach is an ideal stopping point. Don't be surprised if you see a gaggle of paddleboarders taking lessons and trying their skills on the waves. Most are coming from Empire's Sleeping Bear Surf and Kayak, which gives lessons and rents equipment. Here, you can walk for hours with glimpses of towering dunes to the north. If you've worked up an appetite, check out Joe's Friendly Tavern for lunch.
Not hungry yet? Continue north along M-22, drive through the narrows between green-blue little and big Glen Lakes and head into Glen Arbor. Stop at the deck at Boone Dock's for a burger and a beer. It's a good time to fortify, because you should plan to spend the afternoon hiking the national lakeshore, including North Bar Lake or the Pyramid Point trail, which looks out on South and North Manitou Islands.
The best part of this area is that trails run the gamut — from an easy stroll to see a beautiful vista just a few feet from your vehicle to a heart-pumping, hours-long dune climb. Take the 7.4-mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, a natural beauty road.
For an overnight stay, check out The Homestead Resort in Glen Arbor or head into Traverse City, about 35 minutes away. Traverse City is home to a range of lodging, from elegant inns such as Chateau Chantal on Old Mission Peninsula and beachfront locales such as Bayshore Resort to the historic and city-centered Park Place to the resort of Grand Traverse Resort & Spa (in nearby Acme).
Save your appetite for this city, recognized as one of the top foodie towns in the nation. If money is no object, check out Stella Trattoria, with its superb Italian cuisine, in the Grand Traverse Commons, (the former state hospital) for fine dining or, for a water view of Grand Traverse Bay and more reasonable prices, head to Apache Trout Grill, where the lobster shrimp bisque and whitefish entree make a mouthwatering end to the day.
E-mail Andrea Tamboer: atamboer@grpress.com and follow her on Twitter at twitter.com/andreatamboer
11 Sep, 2011--
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